Friday, 8 July 2011

Lares Trek - we survived (just)

As I´m writing this you may have realised we survived our Lares Trek which began on 25 June - the alternative Inca Trail - just Steph and I were doing this trek, the others in the group left for starting the Inca trail in Ollyantaytambo the day before. After leaving at 5.45am from Cuzco and up some very rocky and windy roads, we visited Ancasmarca an Incan site on the way to the start of the trek.

At Ancasmarca at 7 in the morning

 The start of the trek with Belarus and Ilhenio. Don´t really know why we have our arms in the air!

We then headed to Lares to pick up bread rolls as gifts for all of the local children we´d meet. Our guide Huilo then introduced us to our cook Belarus (well that´s what it sounded like) and porter Ilhenio (although we were also having 3 horses to carry all of our stuff too!).

On a mish uphill

The first few hours we a slight uphill, and waiting at the end was a 3 course lunch, soup, chicken and chips and banana and caramel sauce! So we were a bit stuffed! We only had an hour and a half to get to camp, but we had a steep climb to it, absolutely knackering as we were over 4000m above sea level. We met some local familes and saw their houses (including many (live) guinea pigs running around!)

Cute local children at the end of day 1. How knackered do we look.

GUINEA PIGS!!!

Camp was all set up when we arrived, it was already very cold so we put more layers on and awaited yet another 3 course meal for tea! We went to bed around 9 as it was so cold, dark and we had an early start.

We slept ok, we weren´t cold in the night (well we must have both had around 6 layers on each plus thermals!) but there was frost on the ground when we woke, but at least the sun was shining again! The first 2 hours were a fairly steep uphill to 4600m, the highest on the trek. Hulio apparently said we did it in a quick time, but we felt pretty pathetic! We were rewarded at the top with an incredible view of a lake, surrounded by snowy mountains, and all very serene and peaceful.

Frost at 4200m. It was -5 during the night. Mmm toasty.


We made it to the top! Stunning lake to boot :)

The next section of the trek was pretty flat, until we got to a steep downhill which took me ages to get down whilst Steph and Hulio sped down - my knees were killing me and my toes! Luckily we were rewarded with lunch at the bottom of the hill - yep you guessed it another 3 course-r! We had to rest for a while for it to digest! The rest of the day was a fairly easy, flat walk, past many local families and children to whom we gave bread and the prezzies I´d brought from home (cheers for the pens and pencils Mother!)


Glad to see my old pens and pencils getting good use in Peru

Camp on the second night was in the middle of a local village´s footy field, and even though lower than the previous night seemed colded as it was deep in the valley and the sun had already started setting. Again, we put more layers on and had a great last night dinner - including alphabetic noodles!

The Lares Trek in noodles (the mayo is the snow capped mountains!)

Our last night´s sleep on the trek was only disturbed by braying bulls at 1am - seriously infruriating and a bit scary! We woke to sunshine again, setting off from camp about 7.30am. After a fairly easy walk we climbed a big hill to get to Pumamarca, another Inca settlement. From then on it was a fairly easy walk, until a few steep downhills, I think Steph and I were coming to the end of our tethers, it was v hot by then and we were knackered!

We finally arrived at Ollantaytambo to catch out train to Aguas Calientes, the town at the foot of Machu Picchu. We could barely walk by then so after getting to the hotel, having a shower and a quick bite, we had an early night for the 6.30am bus to Machu Picchu....

Friday, 1 July 2011

Condors, Canyons, Cheesy Clothes, Cuzco, Curry and (sorry...) cooked Cuy :(

2 blog posts in a day?! This is a quick one as have to pack this eve for leaving Cuzco tomorrow.

After Arequipa we had an early start to get to Cruz del Condor in the Colca Canyon - I´d like to say it´s the deepest canyon in the world but it comes just short - to one the other side of the same mountain range. You may have guessed that Cruz del Condor is where you can spot condors if you´re lucky - and we were!

Waiting for the condors....L-R: Miranda, London Lisa, Carly, Aussie Lisa, me, Steph and tour leader Mark

 One appears!!


What. A. Goon. I bought it of course ;)

The amazing Colca Canyon with its many Incan terraces


En route to Cuzco - highest point on the trip! Check out the pin head on my shadow! (shadow not actual size...)

We had a long and VERY bumpy truck day to Cuzco after the Canyon, but to cheer us up we had a buffet curry on arrival, was amazing, and only about 3 quid all you can eat!

CUUUUUUUUUUUURRRRRRRRYYYYY!!!

The next day was the beginnings of summer/winter solstice celebrations in Cusco - we caught the Corpus Christie parades, it was so busy everywhere and we didn´t really understand what was going on!

 Corpus Christie parade -  banners galore


Celebratory cuy - a.k.a (shh whisper it...!) Guinea Pig

After making it through the crowds we managed to buy the things we needed for our respective Incan treks-the classic Inca Trail of course but in mine and Steph´s case the Lares Trek....but sorry everyone, you´ll have to wait till next time for pics of that and of course the one and only M.P.!!!! Bet you can hardly contain yourselves (!!)

Thursday, 30 June 2011

Delay :( , Ballestas Islands, Nazca Lines, Puerto Inca + Arequipa

It´s been a while! After I signed off last time we found out the truck was still being fixed so we had another night in Lima, which meant a v eary start to get to the Ballestas Islands the next day. Our group was now full, with the additions being Steph, Jess and Jon and Miranda and Charlotte.

The Ballestas Islands are often called the poor man´s Galapagos Islands, there were many many birds, and a few seals!


We then headed to Nazca for an early flight over the Nazca Lines. After a looooong wait, we finally got up there in the smallest plane in the world, but you forgot about it as soon as you started seeing the Lines - AMAZING. How where they made?! By who?! And why?! No-one knows for definite so make your own conclusions! Afterwards we visited the Chauchilla cemetary - slightly spooky open graves seemingly in the middle of nowhere.

Slightly worrying that massages were being offered at Nazca airport

 Us and our plane! Not one of my finest fashion moments...!!

One of the most famous of the Lines - the hummingbird

Chauchilla Cemetary on the way to Puerto Inca

Camped for a few nights at the beach at Puerto Inca, there`s only a hotel there with its own beach so we set up camp nearby. There are also inca ruins all around, but not that spectacular so I won´t bore you with pics! It was also our group´s turn to cook one of the eves - beef skewers, BBQ lamb and risotto, seem to go down quite well! BTW, in comparison to the beach at Punta Sal, we were freeeezing at night, and it wasn´t even that warm in the day, so the tanning was not happening unfortunately :(

Miranda, me, London Lisa and Carly cooking our food!

We left Puerto Inca for Arequipa, Peru´s 2nd city. Arequipeñas consider themselves to be a bit different over other Peruvians...hmm reminded me of Mancunians! It was a very pretty city with lots to see - and buy! The best thing we saw was the Santa Catalina monastery - huge, but very peaceful considering it was in the centre of a city!

At the Santa Catalina monastery

Pretty people in Arequipa´s pretty Plaza. L-R: Steph, Miranda, Charlotte and Jess

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Recent pics

Have been in Lima for 3 days and have 1 hour before we leave for Pisco so can´t write too much, so thought pics would be the way to go!


 Incapirca ruins in Ecuador, the best Incan ruins they have apparently

 At the Panama hat factory in Cuenca, Ecuador - or is it an art installation?!

Panama Hat factory shop! L-R: Emma, London Lisa, Aussie Lisa, Mark, Carly and me (and no, I didn´t buy mine!)

 Chilling with wine on the beach at Punta Sal, first time camping on the trip!
 I caught this stingray whilst we went fishing in Punta Sal on a v small boat! We put him back tho - not v edibile I don´t think!
 Cliched - but beautiful sunset at Punta Sal
 The pre-Incan Chan Chan ruins. V impressive
Weird bald dogs that can only be found at Chan Chan! Quite cute tho :)
 Hilarious translations on our Chinese menu on our 1st night in Lima, mmm wound of chicken!!
 At the Parque de la Reserva where they do light shows with fountains - better than it sounds!
 Looking out at the sea in Miraflores, the posh ´burb of Lima. V different to the old town where we´re staying
 Pre-Incan Duck!!
Groovy art near the Art Museum

Have to rush now! Off to Pisco, Nazca for the Nazca Lines and the beach again at Puerto Inca. Then Arequipa for the bext Guinea pig in Peru (sorry Luce!)

Friday, 3 June 2011

Ecuador - Quito, Otavalo, eating weird stuff in the Amazon and scoffing toffee in Baños

Well I´ve finally found the internet! Thanks to all for your well wishes, everything is going well so far! My journey here was fine, was in Quito for a few days and saw some sights, though am still finding getting to grips with the Spanish quite hard! 

Met everyone off the trip on Sat 28th, there are only 7 of us at the mo (one couple Carly and Mark from Yorks/Australia, two girls who are friends from London Lisa and Emma, J who is 74(!!) from Canada and another Lisa from Australia who is my room/tentmate) but more are joining us in Lima in about 10 days. The truck vehicle we are on is massive (not got any pics yet but imagine a cross between a lorry and a coach, which from afar looks like a bright yellow prison vehicle (with no bars of course!)). Another Mark is our trip leader and Scott is our driver, both have done a few trips before so I think we are in good hands!

 Bit of a view of Quito (but not actually a very good one, best I´ve got!)

 Silly hats at Otavalo market (was tempted by the tiger one for you know who!)

I´m writing this from Baños which is famous for it´s outdoor activities-canyoning, rafting etc, its hot springs (doing that later I think!), massages and chewy ´taffy´ (toffee) which they make from sugar cane and pull it from wooden hooks in the taffy shops as you walk by (needless to say, I had to buy some to try it!!)

Before Baños we had 3 nights in the Amazon jungle staying at a lovely lodge over looking Rio Napo, we went for a few jungle walks where we ate some of the cocao (choccy) plant in its raw state (bit weird!), ate lemon ants (yes ants!), tasted their version of rhubarb (calm yourself Dad!) and got told about the medicinal/useful properties of plants that the local people and tribes use. 


Aussie Lisa and I on the Amazon boat to the lodge. Yes, I have no makeup on :@
 Eating raw cocao!

 Our lodge. L-R: Emma, London Lisa & Aussie Lisa

 View from our lodge. That´s the river we tubed down.Yes really!

 Obligatory cat pic. This kitten thought it´s mother was this chicken - v cute!

On our last full day we ´tubed´down the river (basicially sat in rubber rings and got taken downstream by the current), at first a scary thought but once you were on them it ws very relaxing - one of the Lisa´s took some pics so I´ll have to get them off her! It was pretty steamy in the jungle, but not unbearable, we slept in rooms that were screened at the windows and under mosquito nets, I got a few bites but tried to wear long sleeves and trews to minimise them, everyone else got a lot more! We got all our food cooked for us which was pretty good, but it got quite difficult as soon as it got dark as the generator was broken, so we had to struggle with candlelight and torches to get around and go to the loo, you were never quite sure what bugs you were going to encounter!! Oh, a word on bugs; they really weren´t that bad - lots of different ants, kamikaze moths at night and the odd weird beetle/cockroachlike thing, but they didn´t really seem to bother us. We did meet a big spider on one of the walks though....

Big spider we all nearly walked into!
Our jungle makeup! Apparently this is the local tribe women´s party makeup. I was just happy to have some makeup back on! L-R: Emma, London Lisa, Carly, me, Aussie Lisa

 Preserved poisonous snakes in the Museo Sacha Samay. Eek!

Me attempting to use a blow pipe. I failed, of course ;(

I´ve not taken many pics in Baños so will update them when I can, prob in Cuenca our next stop in a couple of days. 

My phone is being crap BTW so sorry if I´ve not replied to texts etc, hopf I´ll have reception in Cuenca. Keep me updated with all your news and pics remember, esp of various weddings!! Adios for now! H x x